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GREAT HIMALAYAN NATIONAL PARK This national park, declared in 1984, comprises the water catchments of the Sainj, Tirthan and Jiwa Rivers – an area of ca. 754 sq km. The park protects an important area of western Himalayan broadleaf forest. One of the great attractions of this park for birders is that it holds a population of Western Tragopan (possibly the only one in India) as well as a fabulous range of other western Himalayan species. The best area to look for Western Tragopan and other pheasants is the Tirthan River valley around the high altitude grazing area of Shilt. Birding anywhere between Gushaini and Chowdar is excellent. The forest between Gushaini and Chowdar is strikingly beautiful. The lower areas below Rolla are vegetated with subtropical forests of oaks, spruce and cedar (Deodar). As one ascends rapidly to Shilt the forest changes to temperate broad-leaved and coniferous forests of oaks, yews, spruces and firs. Above this can be found alpine meadows. The weather in late July was interesting! This is the start of the monsoon in Himachal Pradesh and during seven days in the GHNP we experienced bouts of very heavy rain in between damp, cloudy periods and occasional sunny weather. Above 3000 m at Shilt it was notably chilly. In mid summer the trails are very overgrown with weeds, long grasses and nettles. At other times of year the trails are much easier due to dieback of the undergrowth. KEDARNATH MUSK DEER RESERVE, UTTARANCHAL Located in the Garhwal region of the Great Himalaya, this ca. 97,500 ha reserve was created in 1972 and comprises the northern catchment of the Alaknanda River (a major tributary of the Ganges). There is great altitudinal variation within the park, reflected in a diverse flora and fauna. The land between Gopeshwar and Anasuya, outside the reserve, has mostly been cleared for agriculture with patches of forest in the nullahs and on hilltops. Forests of chir pine and oaks with Rhododendrons in the understorey represent the subtropical zone above Gharsari. At higher altitudes, above Kanchila Khark, stands of pine and firs appear. The subalpine zone above 3000 m has stands of birch and Rhododendrons. Alpine meadows of grasses and sedges can be found at higher altitudes. After birding in Ladakh and even in the Great Himalayan National Park, the density and diversity of birds in this marvelous reserve was noteworthy. In particular the area around Gharsari held some fabulous and large mixed feeding flocks consisting of up to 40 species. A number of species not usually found in the Western Himalayas occur in the reserve. Of particular note are Yellow-rumped Honeyguide, Black-faced Warbler and Nepal Wren-Babbler. Anywhere between Gharsari and Chopta is worth birding. The best method seemed to be to drive slowly along the metalled road, stopping where there is any conspicuous activity. With more time there are plenty of opportunities for trekking to some of the more remote parts of the reserve, away from the road. That said, the birding along the road is world class (see Appendix 2). We hired a driver in Rishikesh (the nearest large city to the reserve), who stayed with us for the five days we spent in the area. Based in the very unprepossessing town of Gopeshwar, we drove out daily to the reserve to various places between Gharsari and Chopta. With permission it is possible to stay at the Forest Resthouses at Gharsari but these are very basic indeed and it would be necessary to bring all food in and then find someone to cook. It occurred to me that some of the trekking companies in Rishikesh might be worth approaching with this course of action in mind. The weather in the area at this time of year was again capricious. Generally the mornings were fine but overcast, with heavy rain after lunch then light rain through the afternoons. Surprisingly, the rain and drizzle may actually have enhanced the birding with some fabulous sightings of thrushes and pheasants on the roadsides.
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